A while ago I posted pictures of these great bibs I had made Jesse, and promised a tutorial.So, here you go!
from this mess…
Does your toddler (or one that you have sat beside at a recent meal) love to feed himself, yet the act requires a complete change of clothes after every meal? This bib has the best coverage of any bib I have met, is easy to put on, and cute on top of everything else. Basic sewing skills are all you need along with these materials:
- One hand or bath sized terry cloth towel
- A fat quarter of complimenting cotton
- The pattern pieces, which you can download, print off, and tape together at the points marked. Each section piece is sized to print on standard 8>5″ x 11″ paper. Tip- be sure that there is no page scaling in the print dialog box.
1.Cutting Out I like to use the towels that are velvet-like on the outside, with the loops only on the inside, ’cause food doesn’t get so embedded in the smooth side. Plus, these towels are extra thick, so even if your toddler spills half his juice cup, his shirt still stands a good chance of staying out of the laundry bin for a few more hours. I find mine at the local thrift store.
Fold your towel lengthwise and pin pattern piece along fold, as marked. Cut out.
You may have some nice chunks of towel left, and these I like to save to make into baby face cloths.
2. The Bias Binding Now you will make the binding and ties for the bib. I have found that a fat quarter of fabric, cut on the bias in 1 1/2 inch wide strips makes just enough for one bib. Join all the strips on the diagonal and sew together to make one long piece of bias binding. Iron all the seams open.
(I won’t go into depth on how to make bias binding in this tutorial, but if you have never made it before, you can follow steps 1-8 on this page)
3.Armholes The next step is to bind the edges of the bib. You will start with the ‘armholes’. Pin the bias binding (right sides to the velvet-side of the bib) to one armhole edge, as shown, and sew at a 3/8ths seam.
Turn bib over, fold the binding to encase the raw edge of the terry cloth, and fold the raw edge of the binding under about 3/8ths and top stitch down.
Your seam will just catch the binding on the back side, but will run through the terry cloth on the front, basically hiding the seam.
4. Shaping Once we have bound the armholes, we can shape them. Join the dots marked on the pattern by overlapping the corners and pinning them. Now we will bind the sides of the bib and, in doing so, catch the edges we have pinned together, completely finishing off the armhole.
Repeat the binding method used for the armholes, catching the corners of the armhole with-in the seam.
Fold your remaining bias binding in half to find the center, and pin this, centered, to the neck edge. You should have at least 8 inches extending on either side (if you have a lot of extra, you can trim it down to 12 or 14 in. on each side).
Sew this seam, ending with back-stitching at the end of the neck edge. Now fold the binding in half, lengthwise, right sides together, and pin. To aid in turning the ties, you can encase a length of yarn in the fold, with a knot at the end of the yarn.
Sew at a 3/8 inch seam, taking care not to catch the yarn in your stitches, from end of tie right up to the neck edge. Trim corners of ties, and turn by slowly pulling the end of the yarn.
Now you can finish the neck edge just as you did the other edges, trim the yarn off close to the tips of the ties, and…
… you’re finished!
This one I made for our little neighbor girl, and gave it to her when her family came over for dinner. She is bi-lingual and kept saying “Pretty! Pretty!” in both English and Japanese when I put it on her.